Africa 2006

“For some people, when you say ‘Timbuktu’, it is like the end of the world, but that is not true. I am from Timbuktu, and I can tell you we are right at the heart of the world.” - musician Ali Farka Toure, 1939 - 2006

I took the 21st century version of the ancient camel trains to Timbuktu – a 4×4, windscreen beautifully intact and air in all the tires. My plan is to return the romantic way – by pinasse (like a large covered canoe) on a three-day trip along the Niger River. The reason is a very un-romantic one: it’s much cheaper to return by pinasse that to go.

I also have companions for this leg of the journey (another non-romantic financial reason, but also because they’re nice people): Brenna and David live in Ottawa (so they must be great, right?) and – they just got engaged on the beginning of their trip!

The 4×4 ride up to the fabled city was much prettier than I had imagined. As we bumped along to music by Djeneba Seck, another one of Mali’s great talents, the plains got sandier and sandier and we caught glimpses of dromedary camels being herded by Tuareg shepherds in azure turbans. There were even beautiful rocky formations like in the US South-West.

It was dark by the time we drove over the narrow, sandy (and therefore scary) spit to the point on the Niger River where we caught the car ferry across. We dined in the dark on tinned sardines and peanuts so fresh they taste like peas, and danced with local women while we waited to the ferry to shuttle us across in the dark (rather nervewracking) to the other side. The journey time from Mopti was 10 hours.

Approaching Timbuktu was a little bit like any North American city – first the gas station, then several “Welcome To..” and “We’re Twinned with…” signs, then the African equivalent of mini-marts and chain stores. There is only one paved road; the rest are lined with sand.

The full day we had in Timbuktu was possibly the best one – it was the festival to celebrate the end of Ramadan. Everyone wandered the streets dressed in their finest colourful turbans and kaftans. Even little girls had makeup and high heels on (how they walked through the sand I don’t know!). Happily, it also meant we were left virtually undisturbed by the tourist touts who are legendary for clinging to tourists during their stay.

We walked around the city to visit the homes of the first Europeans to visit this city, and to the three mud mosques of the town. We had tea with Tuareg nomads and scrambled up some sandy hills; Timbuktu is literally on the fringe of the desert.

The town is much more interesting that I was led to believe; the only disappointment is all the garbage, especially discarded black plastic bags which seem to float around everywhere.

We ate traditional toucassou last night at the Poulet D’Or, a huge bread ball with beef pieces and a tomato and onion sauce. I am so deprived of vegetables at the moment, I consider onions a valuable contribution, and Coca Cola a nutritional addition to my diet.

On to the pinasse this afternoon, if all goes well, back to Mopti by Wednesday and then on to Burkina Faso!